We left the Argentinian border post at San Sebastián, Tierra del Fuego early in the AM on the 14 km stretch of ‘ripio’ (dirt road) for the distant Chilean border post. We departed in a stiff breeze that was gusting to 50 or 60 by the time we reached the border. A brief rest and we pushed on, along a new concrete surface still not open to traffic. It was a good thing as we wove down the road drunkenly, heads down, at a blistering 3 kms/hr, basically a walking pace. Ten kms on and we were bagged! Stuck in the middle of the lonely pampas with nothing but sheep for company and not a tree in sight. I-Overlander (one of the apps we use for alternative travel in isolated regions) listed a forlorn, bus shelter some 30 kms distant as the only place to get out of the wind. To make a long story short and after some heated discussion, we opted to hitchhike. Two hours later a bus stopped and next thing we knew we were on our way to Punta Arenas thereby avoiding 2-3 days riding directly into 50+ km/hr winds with absolutely nothing but pampas all the way to Porvenir. Clearly, we are getting soft (or smarter would Claire say)
The bus headed north to cross the Straights of Magellan at the narrow, eastern most entrance to the Straight . The ferry landing was a simple, wave washed ramp on a desolate stretch of coast. Somehow the smallish ferry remained in place while loading. I don’t know if it was the 80 km/hr winds, the long westerly fetch or the constricted passage but, yikes, that was a rough crossing, the roughest I’ve experienced. The crew tells me they shut it down when winds are over 110 km/hr. I can’t imagine what that’s like. One can’t help but think of Magellan setting off in 1519 with 5 ships and 270 men to find a route around the Americas. He might have discovered the straight that bears his name and led the expedition that first circumnavigated the globe but only one ship and 19 men limped into port three years later. Their perseverance under such adversity into the unknown is truly hard to fathom. (They should have taken the bus says Claire).
Our return to speaking Spanish has been a joy. We are constantly being told what good ‘Castellano’ we speak after which the speaker will rattle along at a mile a minute of which we catch 25%. We have a long way to go to regain better fluency. The difference between Chilean and Argentinian pronunciation is quite pronounced which complicates matters.
We’ve already had a few ‘mechanicals’. My rear view mirror popped off and by the time I returned to pick it up a car had run over it so I now have a somewhat functional, jury rigged affair with a shattered mirror. A strong gust of wind folded my bike over on its kickstand which, bent beyond repair, I threw in the trash. I now either lie my bike down or have to find something to prop it against. Otherwise the bikes are performing well. Our bodies maybe a little less so.
A pleasant two day break in Punta Arenas at the home of Ivette, the partner of an old friend of my sister was just what we needed, as the following days ride north got progressively more difficult as once again we were headed into the wind. We managed to struggle up to a ‘refugio’ that I-Overlander indicated provided some break from the wind. These refuges are dotted throughout the pampas and were originally intended as rudimentary shelter for gauchos working the vast estancias (ranches). Dirt floored, 10×10, tin shacks with some sort of homemade wood stove to get a fire going and in this particular case a dilapidated bed fit for a mangy dog. We set up the tent in the lee of the shack, got a fire going, made dinner and had a comfy evening reading in our new light weight chairs. The next day the winds were worse. We pushed on to Villa Telhueche, (and barely made it says Claire) tiny village but Claire was done in, so once more we stuck out our thumbs and landed an awesome ride in the truck of the most congenial road crew worker. We chatted away for the 80 km ride into Puerto Natales, the home base for trips into the famous Torres del Paine National Park. We spent two nights in PN waiting for the northerly winds to lessen and then they suddenly changed to out of the southwest, so despite the late start we jumped on the bikes for a glorious wind-driven ride to the tiny hamlet of Cerro Castillo where we set up our tent in Maritza’s backyard.
There followed three days of what makes bike touring so rewarding. Maritza was the most easy going, warm hearted host imaginable. Her husband Raul was a colourful gaucho who competed in Chilean style rodeo and sheepdog trials. We, a Swiss couple on a yearlong round the world trip, a Brit with her polyglot partner on a six month South American trip and Oliver from Slovenia pushing his heavily laden 3-wheeled stroller all the way to Alaska (what a character, we think he will make it, olythewalker.com), all around the table in Maritza’s kitchen, cooking on her wood stove and telling traveling tales. The wind never ceased howling. At night they were even stronger and roared like a jet plane as we tried to sleep. We worried our tent, despite being tucked in behind a hedgerow wouldn’t survive the battering. When the winds wouldn’t abate we jumped on a bus into the Park and did the 20 km hike up to the base of the Torres del Paine. Despite the crowds (reminiscent of Joffrey Lakes), the cold and the clouds obscuring the towers it was a great hike.!
Despite some aching quads the favourable winds encouraged us to keep riding, on the next leg to El Calafate…..until the road turns to the North.
PS – Much to our delight Claire’s computer has mysteriously emerged out of the bureaucratic maze that is the Newark airport lost and found department. We had indeed lost it while passing security most likely while the security guard harassed us about our dehydrated peanut butter.
PPS – Putting together this blog with limited Wi-Fi on an IPad is proving quite a challenge. Uploading photos from our camera is now not working just another challenge along the way.
OVER THE HILL AND BEYOND 
Go you two! “Wind” seems to be your theme. All the very best, John.
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Hi from your next door neighbours! What an amazing adventure you’re having. Can’t believe the winds you’be been tackling. It sounds like you’ve met some wonderful people and are having fun along with hardship! Everything is quiet on Ayr Drive. Abby misses you! Cheers, Doug and Arlene
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Very glad to share our hardships with you guys and anyone for that matter…! But in reality, there is much rewards.. to be talked about in the next post.
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Look forward to hearing more from you guys…..all the latest Ayr Drive gossip;)
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Blustering blog posts! Sounds wild and woolly. Onward Ho
Best thoughts
Mitch and Susan
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Blustering is the half of it! We are now in El
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Really enjoying reading about your adventures! Thanks for making the effort to write and post even without the laptop and with limited wifi!
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The words of support help us along the way. Very happy to keep contact with you all.
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Beloved friends……I truly wish to avoid being an alarmist,,,, but I cannot tell a lie,,,,,,the thought occurred that,,,,,,no,
I cant say it…. only when you are home alive and well will I reveal the dark though5 that crossed my mind in my comments to you…on the lighter side,,, I wish to comment that Jim’s writing skills are very impressive….incredibly witty and entertaining….my deepest concern is that Claire is not injured ( or worse ) on this trip. You, Jim, brilliant writting and all, will have to answer to me…. ,,,sincerely, Lorraine 💕🌹🕊🚴♀️.
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Always great to hear from you Lorraine. Nothing to worry about…..Claire is just fine.
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Hi, So glad you met Ivette. Too bad Kiko wasn’t there. Had to laugh with your rear-view mirror story! Though I’m sure it wasn’t funny. When will you be beyond this high wind stretch of territory? I’ll send your link to Kiko incase he doesn’t have it.
Hold on to your handlebars! Take care Elaine x
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Wow, I am blown away (sorry had to say it lol) by the challenges you’ve had with the wind. I remember Claire when you guys had dinner with us before you left and we were looking at the trek in Patagonia, talking about how windy it could be. You were showing some concerns at that time . Love the video of the tree almost blown away by the strong wind! Wish you better days ahead and smooth riding to your next destination. And yes please take care, love Carole
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Thanks Carole. Your wishes sent us some good luck…. to be read in the next post.
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Zut de vent, pas facile, c’est fou. Une luck trouver votre ordi…vous etes bien courageux. Le paysage et la rencontre des gens est interessant. Enfin , mieux que travailler… quel aventure..Ici la neige est arrive et le froid aussi. On bat des records. Voila on vous suits. A bientot xxx
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Je suis heureuse de savoir que on n’aura pas le problème de la neige! Les vents me suffissent.
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Nous sommes allé dans ce coin du monde mais via une confortable croisière de Buenos Aires à Valparaiso. Vous me rappelez donc quelques souvenirs, re Strait of Magellan et Ushuia. Qu’elle volonté vous avez! Heureusement que vous bénéficiez de belles rencontres.
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Oui les rencontres sont parfois ‘amazing’! A lire dans notre prochain blog.
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So glad to hear you’ve found your laptop!! We love reading your updates, hopefully the winds will calm down for you soon!
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Hi guys
Thx for commenting. We saw Oliver (the walker) again in Calafate. We also went to the Black Sheep in El Chalten- our best meal so far this trip! Thanks for the tip.
Best
Jim and Claire
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Seems as if you really picked the wrong direction for this trip. Were you holding the Ipad upside down while planning?
PS the link to Oliver’s website does not work.
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Yes as you will see in our next post we are indeed going the wrong way but ,in the end , it provides a different experience and we don’t regret our decision. It is probably olithewalker.com .
BTW, Could you respond to this briefly just so I can see how the system works. Thanks for the comment, always great to hear from you
Love Dad
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olithewalker.com works.
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This is like sailing the Roaring Forties without a cabin to retire to. You are hardy travellers to say the least, and I admire your bravado to undertake such a challenging ride. Pointed sticks in the eye will seem comforting after this one.
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Good to hear from you Don. As for pointed sticks, we just finished the epic hike-a-bike
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Oops I just lost my response (I am such a Luddite!) Thanks for the comment Don. We just completed an epic hike a bike. Our day started at 5 AM and we pulled into a campsite at 17:30, of which maybe 2 hrs was pushing our fully loaded bikes. Claire was a machine. Somehow, I enjoyed it
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It appears you found your laptop but lost your nose hair trimmers. Ahhh, the simple life. Your tales bring back some strong memories – not all pleasant. And you’ve definitely killed any chance of getting Tonya to go for a bike tour! Should’ve taken the bus!
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