2. Hanoi (and other missteps) – Oct/2023

Another inauspicious start to a bike trip! Our Europe trip started with the damaging of my e-reader beyond repair en route to Istanbul . Our South American trip began with losing our computer at the Newark airport security gate in the middle of the night and now, SE Asia has got off to an equally messed up start.

As we left the courtesy lounge at YVR to head to the boarding gate I picked up our things but couldn’t find my boarding pass. A frantic search, with me laying the blame squarely on the overly zealous cleaning lady, turns up nothing. Ten minutes later, and don’t ask me how, Claire finds the pass in my pant pocket …….of all places! I sheepishly follow a smug looking Claire to the gate then leave her to go have a pee. On my way back, Claire appears running towards me, drops the carryon bags at my feet, blurts out a desperate sounding “my phone” and flies by. A few minutes later and a chastened Claire returns with phone in hand (a brand new iPhone 15 at that) retrieved from the top of the toilet paper dispenser where she’d left it . Twenty hours (and 5.5 films) later, we arrive in Hanoi, the only glitch, my strangely ‘dangerous’ looking Alan keyset, confiscated by security while transiting Seoul, Korea. Thank God, our bike boxes miraculously appear, our prearranged driver is there and a friendly concierge awaits us at our modest little hotel in the ‘old quarter’. Our out-of-whack circadian rhythms leave us sleepless and in a bit of a stupor the following day as we searched for the much needed Alan keyset, put the bikes together, figured out Laos visa requirements , tried unsuccessfully to get cash from assorted ATMs and just generally get our act together. Somehow, in the mayhem, I lose one of our credit cards. WTF! Don’t ask me how! …..and I could go on with other blunders, but I’m sure you’re already questioning our capacity to undertake such ventures.

Hanoi, or at least that portion we’ve gotten to know, is old, crowded, noisy (incessant honking) and generally rundown but not without it’s charms. We spend most of our time in the ‘old quarter’. Walking the sidewalks is an obstacle course of tiny, overflowing shops, people cooking, eating, socializing, working and motorbikes parked everywhere! Walking on the street with the traffic is nerve wracking but easier. We’ve had to adapt and now cross streets like the locals with confidence and a certain amount of blind faith that we won’t get smoked.

Street food is varied and tantalizing for which Hanoi is justly renowned. Pho, the noodle soup is common, as is Bun Cho, BBQ pork served with rice noodles and fresh herbs but so is more exotic fare. A block or two from our place I saw some workers butchering what I thought was a strange looking animal on the sidewalk. Not until I looked up and saw the drawn-back canines and the distinctive head and tail of a dog roasting on a nearby spit, did I realize what it was. Vietnam is second only to China in numbers of dog consumed annually (the Humane Society claims 5 million/yr) though I understand the custom is dwindling. We were brusquely waved off when trying to take a photo. There is a strong coffee culture but regrettably our preferred decaf is virtually unheard of. The local specialty, egg coffee, is delicious.

The traffic in Hanoi is a wonder to behold. It is best described as organized mayhem. A continuous flow of scooters, small motorbikes, cars, buses, bikes and pedestrians weaving past each other in all directions. Traffic lights, lane markings, one way signage, stop signs, etc., are all just vague suggestions. The small motorbikes/scooters are by far the dominant mode of transport and despite their small size carry enormous loads and up to five passengers. To watch a family of three with toddler between their legs on a scooter, enter one of these chaotic intersections with the driver on his cell phone, all with looks of calm complacency is, quite frankly, mind blowing! Despite the appearance of chaos, clearly there are rules. Never look at what’s behind, keep a finger on the brake at all times, one’s horn must always be functional, never hug the curb (someone will always try to go inside ) and, above all, embrace a stoic fatalism!

The traffic might be crazy but the people, to date, have been lovely. Courteous, confident, patient, hard working and entrepreneurial. These are the same people who defeated the mightiest empire of the day and their pride in how far they’ve come is evident. Yet it remains a poor country (avg. monthly salary = $280 USD), corrupt from all accounts with many challenges ahead, of which plastic pollution is probably the least of their worries (it’s everywhere!). The army still plays a big role in society and, one gets the sense they retain the respect of the population. On this I might be wrong but reverence for Ho Chi Minh is unquestioned. We visited his mausoleum in amongst long lines of respectful locals. Despite the security, the long wait in the heat and the overly zealous protocols, it was still a worthwhile experience to see the famous ‘Uncle Ho’ in the flesh. Apparently he spends three months each year in Moscow for his annual ‘maintenance’.

In all we spent five days in Hanoi. We visited none of the typical tourist sites (Ha Long Bay, etc.) and focused on simply recovering from jet lag, adjusting to the heat and humidity, prepping for the ride and soaking up the atmosphere of Hanoi’s Old Quarter. One day, we did a long walk out to the ‘famous’ Hanoi Bike Collective, apparently THE place for biking beta, only to find out it has been closed for years (once again, led astray by Google) but then found a small shop with an Indian owner who was a wealth of good advice. We had a great connection with him and a South African expat, roadie, living in Hanoi, in the shop getting his bike fixed. We bonded over all things biking. They solved our biggest worry, namely, how to get out of this city of 8 million and helped us plan our route to Laos. The thought of starting our trip on the chaotic streets of old Hanoi was too daunting. Hiring a van to take us the first 11 kms was a no-brainer.

A few shots of the kind of things that draw our attention.

Here we are in Viet Tri after our first day of riding. Tired, with sore butts, but glad to be on the road and hoping we have good enough wifi to publish this post.