Our first three days riding out of Hanoi were both easy and illuminating. We followed the broad, flat valley of the Red River (Song Hong) towards the northwest, and the town of Yen Bai, at which point we turned west and headed up into the mountains. Those three days showed us how densely populated the country is, how verdant the landscape and how intensively farmed it is, and finally, how fervently capitalist this ‘communist’ country is. The riding was easy enough, despite the heat, and the drivers courteous, in a Vietnamese-sort-of-way, always honking as they approach from behind, but in a country thar sees way too many road-related fatalities, we’ve got to stay focused.
The urban landscape is rather unappealing. The roads are lined with a confusing mishmash of every conceivable type of business with each narrow frontage having some form of business, many seemingly marginal. All are adorned with large, glaring signage, which to our eyes, sometimes seems to have little to do with the business within. Parks or publicly accessible plazas (ubiquitous and charming in Latin America) are rarely seen . On the other hand the government (a one-party state similar to China’s) has put significant resources into schools, hospitals and other infrastructure throughout the country and it shows, as we ride by. One troubling observation is that we see few people out walking the streets. It seems virtually everyone has some type of small motorbike. They’re everywhere, ridden by all ages and offer inexpensive mobility to the masses but at some cost to their society. Regardless, one can’t imagine going back now.
The housing is all over the map. Typically modest and pieced together in a way commensurate with a country where the average monthly salary is $277 US but we’re also surprised at the number of good quality ‘middle class’ homes in these small communities we pass through. And then we turn a corner and there will be an ostentatious, McMansion amongst its modest neighbours. The latter speak to the abundant and cheap skilled labour, corruption and, we assume, a culture where some like to flaunt their wealth.
Two of the more outlandish examples of over-the-top McMansions. Most seem rarely occupied. The one on the left was in a very modest town. Is it an example of a successful ´business man’ returning to his home village in triumphant style? The second, we were told was being built by the ‘owner’ (oxymoron) of the State-owned oil company. It makes Louis XIV’s tastes appear subdued. Another told us that this person is likely to get caught up in the current anti-corruption campaign, which I’ve also been told is more of a smokescreen for getting rid of political rivals. Who knows? Our understanding is so superficial.
After the cinnamon, it was wood carving. Using basic tools, a variety of woods, infinite patience, skill and amazing things happen. At the top, left is the sitting room of our $16. per night hotel room. These beautifully carved seating arrangements (or similar )were to be found everywhere, even in quite modest homes. Quite frankly, they were bloody uncomfortable and heavy as sin but they were showy and clearly, the must-have furnishings. The polar opposite of IKEA. On the right is an example of the most outrageously, impractical but exquisitely carved chair fit for a king. Who would buy this unwieldy thing? What fraction of the population could afford it? At the bottom is a (poor) photo/example of how they work hardwood tree rootballs into, in this case, a fantastic bas-relief carving.
And possibly most outstanding were the rock carving villages. Giant pieces of stone of infinite color and shape, skillfully carved and polished to create, once again IMO, impractical dust collectors that seem to serve more than anything else, as displays of wealth. The effort to move some of these pieces would be gargantuan!
The greatest virtue of bike touring is the contact with people. We can easily stop at whatever interests us. We’re approachable and to many, intriguing. They often ask our age. The school kids will yell out “Hello, how are you? What is your name?”, and that’s it . Communication is our constant challenge. Outside of Hanoi, English disappears. Google Translate is a powerful tool but with limitations. A hotel concierge kept asking to see our ´pizza’ – she meant ‘passport’. We all had a good chuckle but the language barriers can be tiring/frustrating for all involved. As we passed through two small towns, within 24 hours, we were invited into two different weddings. What scenes! Four to five hundred people, apparently just friends, neighbours and family, all packed into makeshift halls. The ladies dressed to the nines. Tables laden with country food, most of which a mystery to us. Constant toasts, followed by handshakes and a steady stream of people wanting to meet/talk to us. In an ambiance of shouted conversation with overwhelming karaoke on top, it was all a bit much and we would, as delicately as possible, excuse ourselves after we’d eaten (how gauche!) and get back on our bikes.
Bike touring is not for everyone. It’s a lot of ride-eat-sleep-repeat. It is also full of uncertainty and requires resilience and a ‘go with the flow’ mentality. On the other hand, it is full of the wonderful personal encounters described earlier and if the riding is scenic, road and traffic conditions reasonable, then we’re happy campers. The route info we received in Hanoi was perfect. The riding through the hill country and then down to Dien Bien Phu has been all we could ask for. Dien Bien is where the French colonial forces lost the decisive battle to the Viet Minh under Ho Chi Minh, that led to the collapse of French Indochina, the division of Vietnam into the communist North and the US backed South. And this, of course, led to the 20 year long Vietnam War.
There is so much more to write about but I’ve gone on too long as it is. We’re posting this from Dien Bien and are riding to the Laos border in the morning.
PS – comments/critique welcomed. Is this way too long? Too much writing? Too many photos? Look forward to hearing from you.
OVER THE HILL AND BEYOND 
Thanks for that post. I am so glad to hear from you two. Such another great experience for you. Amazing how you deal with the heat, not for me. Even at minus 10, I got some hot flash so at plus 30…OUF! llooll To answer to your question: Never get enought of your posts or pictures of your expedition. So get along with it , no problem here to read your super posting. Merci Jim et Claire pour ces beaux et intéressants articles dignes d’une revue de voyage. Avez-vous pensé à publier tous ces blogs dans un livre ou revue???? Bonne continuation et pas tannée pantoute de vous lire. Bisous Linda et Alain. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Écrire un livre serait long et pénible pour Jim. Tu devrais voir comment il peine pour ces blogs!!! Parlant de chaleur, aujourd’hui elle nous a vraiment assommé! Les montées sont un peu longue à mon goût. Un gros bonjour à toute votre famille et bisous.
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Merci à vous deux pour ces belles publications. Je ne me lasse jamais de vous lire. Quelle belle expérience de vie et le faire à deux, c’est encore mieux! Ce coin de la planète est tellement différent de notre mode de vie nord-américain que nous sommes déstabilisés constamment en voyant les types de maisons, commerces ou transports et ils sont heureux comme cela. Juste à voir les sourires sur les photos, ils ne sont pas en perdition comme on le penserait avec notre esprit nord-américain. Souvent on se compare et malheureusement, on se croit supérieurs avec notre mode de vie. En attente de vos autres articles et gros bisous. Faites attention avec cette chaleur. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Nous sommes aussi heureux que nos histoires vous plaisent. C’est encourageant de voir qu’on a des ‘fans’!!
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I am happy with the length of your blogs and feel the same for the number of your pictures. One picture I would love to have seen is the Woman riding her motorcycle with the fish alive in the water containers. That would have been quite a sight for you I am sure! Hope your butt is not as sore for the rest of the trip Jim and you rock Claire!
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Butts are getting accoutumés to the ordeal. Now if only we can arrive at the flatlands!!
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It’s perfect. Wonderful descriptions and photos and perfect length I’d say. Well done, both of you! Looking forward to the next installment😊.
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Thanks for the feedback Jarred. Appreciated. Looking forward to your travel tales.
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You guys are troopers! Love the narration of your travels too. Hope all continues to go well.
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Your writing is perfect Jim……good descriptions and photos to get a feel for your trip. It makes us feel like we are along for the ride so to speak….although not the heat. We left Botswana at 40 degrees a week ago and landed in YVR/Kelowna to plus 5. Quite the shock to the system. Please stay safe and rested and take care of each other. Adventures are what life is all about especially when shared with your woman!
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Good to hear from you guys. We will have to drop by the next time we’re up in the Okanagon to hear your stories from Africa. We’ve some wonderful memories from trips to Botswana.
All the best
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I like the pictures of the countryside, some pretty dramatic landscapes — being cultivated by a clearly hardy and hardworking people.
I’m sure at this point you have both made an appearance on many a vietnamese social media page as the ‘cool but crazy white folks’ they saw one day. Keep it up! A nice read ❤
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Thanks Nina. Hadn’t thought about the likelihood of local social media but now that I think about it……..Glad to see all comments being positive but figure friends are just being generous/polite. I know I’ll get the unvarnished truth from you. 😉 Keep them coming!
Love Dad
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Fine length, great impressions, and excellent photos. Oh, the joys of being on the road – albeit with a sore butt.
I am curious what your initial impressions of Laos will be, after intensely crowded Vietnam. Good on you Claire – crossing the river on the bamboo bridge! I’ve been down with COVID for 5 days. No fun!
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Fine length, great impressions and excellent photos. Oh the joys of being on the road, albeit with a sore butt. Good on you Claire, crossing the bamboo bridge! I’ll be curious to hear your impressions of Laos after intense and crowded Vietnam. I’m down with COVID – No fun! Would sooner be traveling! My first posting didn’t post so hope this doesn’t post Twice! Ella
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Thanks Ella. Definitely a different vibe in Laos yet globalization makes it ‘same old, same old’. We’ve got 3 more days of hill climbs then Luang Phrabang and south should be easier. The hills in the heat are too much!
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Nice to see you on the road again!
Vietnam is a well-known country for me. I visited it several times as coordinator of several projects in the Quang Tri region (near Hué). Great people to work with, the Vietnamese!
Rianne and I were cycling from Spain to Holland this summer (in June) over the Massif Central. A beautiful region. In Belgium we were following the river the Maas. On the last day (in the evening we wanted to take the train in Holland to our living place), I fell very hard on a slippery roundabout , broke my hip (and slid nearly a passing truck). Happily there was a hospital nearby where I was operated in the evening. After three days I was able to go home. Now, four months later, I am for 90% revalidated and able to run my 10 km again. Happily it happened on the last day of our holidays but it was a painful experience, I can tell.
We still had the idea to cycle through Patagonia next year (Rianne is still working) but Kaila is pregnant and will have a baby in December! So we’ll see.
Have a nice trip and also greetings from Rianne!
Nico
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Great to hear from you Nico but sorry to hear about your accident. Hope you’ll soon be 100%. Lucky it happened in Belgium and not, dread the thought, Laos!
Congrats to Kaila on her pregnancy and to you, soon to be grandparents. A big change for all concerned. Didn’t know you had worked in Vietnam. They are a very industrious and pleasant people. Best wishes to Rianne.
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I’m a little late to the party on responding to this recent post. (NB. We had our 1st grand-daughter recently, so I have legitimate excuse- other than my usual Johnny-Come-Lately refrain). Anyway, just re-read this particular blog post Jimbo and, although already stated by others, your photos are excellent and your style of commentary is not only informative, it’s also highly entertaining- an ideal combo for welcomed travel writing. 👍 Personally, I can’t get enough of your blog writing style (and I’m not just saying that cause you’re cute 😜).
I may not have needed quite as detailed a description of your daily routine of applying liberal amounts of butt cream every morning, but I don’t imagine Claire enjoys hearing (or seeing?) that every morning either? 😂 Having experienced “Baboon Butt” myself on many an occasion, I’ve concluded that it is a necessary evil of adjusting to any form of lengthy bike-riding. My sympathies Jim. Can I suggest seeking out roadside massages along the way? But I digress.
Loving your blogs, enjoying your photos and videos, and looking forward to more of both. Ride on Hound!
Cheers,
Steve (aka BaBu- Swahili for grandfather) (NB. I liked “Grand-dude”, but that moniker got axed by the “Grandfather Naming Committee” 😂)
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