We left Istanbul at the break of dawn. After three days of wandering around the city we were nervous about riding any of the busy streets. Istanbul traffic is notoriously bad. The drivers are quite aggressive contrasted by amazingly nonchalant pedestrians. The thought of trying to ride out of sprawling Istanbul was too much, so … Continue reading 2. Turkey: Istanbul and and Finally Underway (April, 2015)
We set out on this trip with the intention of going with the flow, letting serendipity be our guide and so far, it has been all that and more. For instance, I was determined to avoid the major highways but when you have the choice of a 2 M wide shoulder of smooth asphalt as … Continue reading 3. Turkey: Best Laid Plans
The transition from Turkey to Greece has been more abrupt than I had imagined. Despite Marmaris being a quite cosmopolitan, secular, touristy, port town it is still Islamic and replete with all the traditional elements of Turkish society that we were becoming familiar with: many women in headscarfs (though not a single niqab or burka … Continue reading 4. From Turkey to Greece
We’re taking a rest day in Crete after three full days of riding this hilly island. Yesterday started with a 90 minute climb straight up from the seaside village (Tsoutsouros) where we had ‘wild’ camped on the beach in the middle of town. We wanted to get on the road before the town got up … Continue reading 5. The Greek Islands
Claire’s totally bagged after a long day of fighting headwinds and is already in bed (snoring peacefully away) by 8:30 PM. I just came back from a walk past a string of clubs on the beach with pounding Euro-dance rock and ‘statuesque’ women hanging about in skin tight pants, skimpy tops and 4” pumps…and now … Continue reading 6. Greece: Athens to Corfu
Note to reader: Claire just convinced me to abandon a much longer post describing the politics, history and economy of Albania, which I was sure everyone wanted to wade through. Oh well, next time. What a wonderful reception to this country. We were greeted at the ferry (from Corfu) dock in Sarande, Albania by the … Continue reading 7. Albania: The Edited Version
We crossed from Albania into Montenegro at a remote location in order to avoid traffic on the main road. A sleepy border guard waved us through and we set off with hopes high for moderate grades and light traffic. Rounding our first corner and before us was what looked like an endless, 45 deg. hill. … Continue reading 8. Picturesque Montenegro
Was I ever lucky we were in ‘searching-for-a-place-to-stay’ mode (in Trogir) and going slow. A crucial bolt holding my front pannier sheared suddenly and the pannier rack wrapped tight around my front wheel stopping me dead. I did a track stand on my front wheel, Claire crashed into me and we both collapsed onto the … Continue reading 9. Croatia: Island Hopping and History
There are times when it seems like there are only mad dogs, Englishmen, and Jim & Claire are out in the midday sun. It has been blazing hot with high humidity but somehow we end up riding into the early afternoon when conditions are at their worst. We are both consuming vast quantities of water. … Continue reading 10. Slovenia: Of Caves and Axe Murderers
I can’t remember where or when but it was during one of my many broken conversations with an Italian bike enthusiast. He eloquently likened bike travel with the speed at which the soul can move across the land. As an atheist, the concept of soul is hard to get my head around but I can’t … Continue reading 11. The Speed of Soul & Attacked by a Bear (of all things!)
Our last post ended with the tale of meeting Giorgio Mazza, It was, we thought, a unique chance encounter but somehow these sort of meetings continue……but more on that later. Prior to leaving Rieka in northern Croatia our route had been largely defined by following the Mediterranean coastline. Once we headed inland to Slovenia, our … Continue reading 12. Italy, Austria, Italy, Switzerland…..and so on
There are times when we feel we are losing it. Of course, it is just an age thing but nonetheless we are both frustrated with our declining memories. Just the other day we realized we (I) had left a much valued head lamp at our last camp. Before that was the recently purchased clasp knife … Continue reading 13. France
The decision to go over the Pyrennes instead of around them was not taken lightly but also with a certain amount of blind faith in our on-going good luck. We took two days to cross the mountains with an unplanned stay in a pensionne (at least on my part – Claire always has her own … Continue reading 14. Spain: Over The Pyrenees then head North
As of our last post we were headed to the north coast of Spain to escape the heat. I’m now writing dressed in long pants, socks, my long sleeve merino and windbreaker and sipping tea to keep warm. The dramatic change in temperature has not only taken us by surprise but also reminded us of … Continue reading 15. Spain: The Camino and the North Coast
From Santiago it was just a two day ride to the Portuguese border and back to a language that I always struggled with. After three weeks in Spain, I was back speaking Spanish comfortably but switching to Portuguese has been a struggle and the best that I muster is a rudimentary ‘Portunol’. Claire is more … Continue reading 16. Portugal and the End of the Road
OVER THE HILL AND BEYOND 