There are times when it seems like there are only mad dogs, Englishmen, and Jim & Claire are out in the midday sun. It has been blazing hot with high humidity but somehow we end up riding into the early afternoon when conditions are at their worst. We are both consuming vast quantities of water. I’m sure I must drink close to 8 litres daily yet the past two nights I’ve managed to pass the whole night without getting up for a pee, something that hasn’t happened in many years. I know….too much information, but it is a significant event for me and indicative of a changed metabolism working under adverse conditions!
It has been remarkable the transition a border can represent. Slovenian roads are not much different from Croatian but driver attitude is world’s apart. Instead of feeling completely ignored, as was the case in Croatia, Slovenian drivers are dramatically more considerate of bikers. In fact, for all those Squamish road riders who do their annual trip to ride Italy we think it is time to switch things up and try Slovenia, a lot less traffic and a great riding tradition. Italian riders are regulars.
As we rode up to the border we stopped for coffee at the small border town and out of the blue and within 20 minutes we had met a solo Polish bike tourer, a solo German tourer we had met earlier that day and then a group of maybe 7 bike tourers from the Chzeck Republic…all male. As we found out later we were on a famous overland cycle route from Salzburg and thus the numbers but most significantly, not a women amongst them. We have met a few young women touring with partners but Claire, at 59 years old, very much stands alone. Quite simply there just aren’t that many women willing to do a long, arduous trip like this with a cheap, demanding husband who couldn’t careless for comfort. Just the other day, Claire went for a pee in the bush and, unknowingly squatted on some stinging nettle (or the European equivalent). Despite a big, red rash on the butt she persists uncomplainingly….well maybe a little gripe or two. As I can’t repeat enough, I’m a very lucky guy!
Our first night in Slovenia was quite special. I’m always trying to convince Claire to wild camp but she is not yet comfortable with the idea. In Canada yes, but a strange country is quite another thing. Moreover, they say that in much of densely populated Europe, wild camping is frowned upon. Whatever, I’m Canadian! We had scoped out on Google a possible site beside a river near the town of Postojne. As we rode down a lonely, seldom used dirt road toward the river a car crept up behind us. We came to a fork in the road. The car turned left, parked and out came this small, older man with a questioning look on his face. I mimed, with a hopeful expression, that we were looking for a place to camp. After a moment’s hesitation, he indicated to follow him to “my garden”, the only words he spoke. He drove off on the grassy lane under a tight bower of trees creating a dense, dark tunnel. As we followed on our bikes, I was thinking to myself, ‘what an awesome place’. Unbeknownst to me, Claire is thinking, ‘the guy is an axe murderer’! The canopy of trees opened up to a lovingly tended fruit and vegetable garden with a meadow at the far end. Once again, our host of few words beckoned for me to follow and he led me down a short path to a small, spring fed pool for us to bath in. Very cool! Claire is still not convinced about the wild camping thing but we’re working on it.
The following day we did the morning ride (3.5 hr) to visit a magnificent karst (limestone) cave system in Skocjan National Park. We the spent 2 hours doing the mandatory, but still awesome, guided tour and then another hours walk on our own through the enormous cave. Our guide told us about a youth hostel in a small village another 20 km down the road (as if we hadn’t had enough exercise for one day) which sounded good so we pedaled on. We arrived pretty worn out to find the place had been fully booked for a wedding. Grumpy and tired with either a farmer’s guest house or another night of wild camping as our only options we opted for the former. At 60 euro it was over our budget (God, I’m cheap!) but the gargantuan farm breakfast (we ate everything put on the table!) and long chat with the owners discussing the trials and tribulations of running a small tourism business in Slovenia, made up for the added expense. After only 3 days of riding Slovenia, we crossed into Italy at Gorica and pushed on to the small village of Farra D’isonzo where we had arranged another Warm Shower’s stay. Donatella has just started hosting and she outdid herself (with help from sister Chiara) in putting on a traditional Italian multi-course dinner. We spent a couple of hours chatting and eating around the kitchen table in a 100+ year old house her grandfather had built. After dinner more family arrived. They have such a warm, easy going social grace about them that bodes well for the rest of our time in this country. What an awesome intro to Italy!
Much has happened since we left Donatella’s 10 days ago, including an unplanned venture into Austria. We have just finished one of the best rides of our trip; from Dobiaaco to Longarone via Cortina, right through the heart of Dolomites. We were awestruck! Our days are pretty full and I’m barely keeping up with this blogging business. If I can get my act together I hope to post this tonight.
OVER THE HILL AND BEYOND 