As a builder/designer I can’t help but note the construction standards of the places we stay in (i.e., pretty cheap). I have seen some pretty abysmal plumbing and flimsy structures that one marvels are still standing but the ‘piece de resistance’ was certainly our shower in Pitumarca. The electric shower head (aka. Suicide shower or … Continue reading Colombia: Cali to Medellin
The ride into Cusco was a bit intense. The nearer we got to the Centro Historico the streets became busier, steeper and narrower. I flatted on a busy street and had to use a bucket in the toilet of a nearby restaurant to locate the pinhole in the tube. We arrived at our AirB&B frustrated … Continue reading Machu Picchu
There is something I think we should clarify. It seems to us that many people have the impression that we are doing something particularly difficult. It is not the way we feel. We read the blogs of bike tourers that do longer distances, higher passes, in tougher weather, camp more often and survive on instant … Continue reading To Cusco: Capital of the Incas
We ended up staying four nights in the lovely town of Sucre. We found a funky hostal (once a wealthy family’s villa), with a good vibe in the historic centre of town just a couple of blocks from the main plaza. Plaza 25 de Mayo, laid out in classic symmetry with statues, flower beds and … Continue reading Bolivia: Sucre and La Paz
We left Tupiza for the fabled city of Potosí with the expectation of four tough days of riding. Our ride planning app, MapOut, indicates the elevation gain/loss on our proposed route, and the ride to Potosí had one big climb after another, each to a progressively higher elevation. Can’t believe it but my lips are … Continue reading Bolivia: Ups and Downs
Ever since crossing into Bolivia our preconceived notions of the country keep falling by the wayside. In contrast to La Quiaca on the Argentinian side, the Bolivian border town of Villazon was a hive of activity, full of Argentinians looking for a bargain. The constant changing of currencies, both physically (bills and coin) and rate … Continue reading Bolivia: Getting our Feet Wet
Our last stop in Chile before crossing the Andes to get to Bolivia was the small, dusty, rather dishevelled tourist town of San Pedro de Atacama on the edge of the driest desert in the world. Upon arrival we started checking out the campgrounds. The first two (5,000 peso/pers/night) were packed with young travellers on … Continue reading To Bolivia; the Easy Way
If one looks at a map of Chile you realize that it is almost 6,000 kms, tip to tail and after almost 9 weeks of riding, plus an occasional hitchhike and short bus ride we had covered only 2,800 kms. If we are to get to Columbia in 6 months we will need to cover … Continue reading A Hop, Skip and a Jump
After our Xmas break in the pretty little town of San Martin de los Andes, we left for the Chilean border early in the morning of the 27th. It had been a much needed rest, more for our on-going lip issues than our legs. Claire was especially anxious about the stretch of ripio (gravel road) … Continue reading To The Coast
We’ve switched adversaries. Our daily struggle Is no longer against the wind. We’re riding the Carretera Austral (CA) and we now contend with loose gravel, dust, potholes and hills. We’re not sure what is worse. Combine all these, which has happened too many times, and it is admittedly demoralizing. The CA (Highway #7) of Patagonia, … Continue reading Carretera Austral and Ruta 40
OVER THE HILL AND BEYOND 