Welcome to Laurel and Harvey’s (sic) Travel Blog. We just lost our awesome MSR tent! It fell offthe back of my bike as we bumped along a stretch of rough dirt road. Don’t ask how, it is all too embarrassing (not in my mind – the dirt road was a harsh replacement to the winds; awfully painful). We spent hours looking for it with no luck but as a result we had a great chance encounter with Marco de la Rosa, a weird night in the strange town of Caleta Tortel and bumped into two Finns who by chance wanted to sell their tent. So we bumble along, with a cheap Chilean tent with a broken pole and ripped fly. One does what they have to do.
Riding into El Chalten was even more dramatic than expected (we finally agree on something). The spectacular peak of Fitz Roy dominates the skyline. We were lucky to arrive on a blue bird day as the peaks are, more often than not, typically cloaked in wind whipped clouds. People come from all over the world to see these mountains and often leave without a glimpse. Amongst climbers Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and the surrounding needle-like peaks are iconic climbs with a rich and at times, infamous, history. The recent ascent of Cerro Torre by a young American and Jason Kruk of Squamish, wherein they freed the controversial Compressor Route, chopping all the old bolts as they descended. It was a remarkable climb but an audacious act that landed them in jail and infamy in the Argentinian press but, for the most part, accolades from the climbing community. I spoke with a couple of local guides, incidentally both keen to come to Squamish, who confirmed the above.
As we pulled into the tourist info centre at the entry to town we were warmly greeted by two young Aussie girls we’d met in Calafate. It is a wonderful part of this sort of travel where chance encounters, when repeated, are like meeting long lost friends.
We immediately headed to the Casa de Cyclistas as the recommended place for cycle tourers but despite the friendly proprietor, conditions were just a bit too humble for our liking (you can only imagine) so we headed, up-market, to Camping La Torcida. We set up our tent in the front yard then inspected the facilities. If you can picture something built by a stoner ‘carpenter’, with no proper tools, no skills, with no money, essentially salvage materials, low standards and some psychedelic ideas of architecture, you’ve got a good idea of the place – a little like the fort we built in our back yard as kids. Diego explained, when I asked, that after getting his ‘plans’ approved, he cut out a post that was in the way. I could only wonder at what was holding up the mezzanine. Tatiana’s and Eugenia’s hospitality and great service made up for the physical shortcomings.
Because we are early in the tourist season the staff/owners of the stores, restaurants and lodgings we’ve frequented have had the time to connect with us, greatly enriching our experience. Our second night at La Torcida, the haphazard common area was full of travellers, all glued to their technology and the vibe was very different.
In our short time in town we managed to squeeze in two memorable hikes in great weather (and this is meant to be a break from cycling. Jim encouragingly calls it “cross training”!) Hopefully our photos convey something of the spectacular scenery. Both days after returning from our hikes we had cryptic messages conveyed to us that two cycling ‘friends’ were trying to contact us. Eventually we ran into Dirk and Trudy, a Dutch couple, our ages who wanted us to join them for the crossing from Chalten, Argentina to Villa O’Higgins, Chile. Not only were they better informed about the difficulties ahead but they realized we had to leave early in the morning if we to be sure of the various ferry connections involved, so we frantically and reluctantly (we would have liked more time in Chalten) got prepared for a 5:30 AM start….and we’re glad we did.
The next morning we pushed hard for the first 37 kms of ripio (dirt road) and caught up with the Dutch and made the first ferry over Lago del Desierto with time to spare. Other than some border guards we were the only passengers. We passed Argentine customs at the north end of the lake and then began the infamous (at least amongst South America bike tourers) 27 km stretch to Chilean customs at Lago O’Higgins. The first 6 km we pushed our bikes up a miserable trough of a trail (who the hell built this thing?) crossing multiple creeks in the process. It was a tough push but our hike-a-bike experience paid off and I think we were a big help to Dirk and Trudy. Claire was a machine (imagine mountain biking in the Chilcotin with a touring bike fully loaded – crazy stuff. CH). We tried to ride when we could. I ‘endoed’ (went over the handle bars) following Claire on one stretch, did the ol’ Squamish tuck and roll and came out unscathed but for a bruised ego. By the time we set up camp in the two-house town of Candelario, after a 12 hour day, we were all bagged. Later that night, Jef, a young Belge and a friend from our early days pulled in doing the long, final descent on loose gravel in fading light and failing brakes. The following day was a rest day, just hanging out with a beautiful view over the lake waiting for the boat to O’Higgins. It is a giant, glacier-fed lake, the deepest in South America, and when the winds blow the crossing of 3 .5 hours can often be canceled, for days on end. With dwindling provisions it would be a long wait. We lucked out. Our weather window held, the long boat trip, along the austere lake without sign of life, was uneventful. We rode the 7 km from the dock pulling into town in lovely evening light, found places to stay (each to their respective budget) and all ate together in the only open restaurant and thus began our journey up the famous Caraterra Austral (Southern Highway). The crossing couldn’t have worked out better.
.
OVER THE HILL AND BEYOND 
Jim and Claire
You two are tough!!
Great narrating of your trip.
We are back into the snow this week for some great skiing.
Keep up the great trek. Amazing trip.
Cheers Stewart and Morag
LikeLike
Good to hear from you guys. Yes we will miss an entire ski season and occasionally I regret it but then we have to get back to the matters at hand and it slips my mind;)
LikeLike
Salut Claire and Jim, Each time I tune in and read of your latest travel adventures I am gobsmacked. Thank goodness the landscapes and environs are so stunning and new. You are both made of sterner stuff than me. I am so happy you are both well and haven’t had anything terrible happen to your selves, bodies. A tent and computer, while horribly inconvenient, are so replaceable. I thank you for sharing your journey, it’s inspiring and so riveting. You look great Jim, don’t sweat the man breasts. I think it’s called aging even on the trim/est … I know, I know, I shouldn’t mention the “A” word. May the winds and the gods be with you friends. sending love, Dianne
LikeLike
Thanks for the encouraging words Diane, it’s good to hear from you. We’ve since got our computer back or at least back in Canada and we had a new tent sent to us so we’re back on track. We’ve just worked 3 hours on our next post then lost everything we had done. Travel in Bolivia is going to be a challenge.
All the best
LikeLike
Dear Jim & Claire, apologies for my absent comments on your last few posts- I have thoroughly enjoyed them, and have been meaning to comment, but you know that “living the daily grind” thing has been cutting into my writing time. Anyway, the timing of this morning’s delivery of your latest blog entry was excellent!
Where do I start- after I stop laughing, but still smiling reading about your latest escapades! Never a dull moment w/ the Harvey’s! Truthfully, I’m thoroughly jealous pretty much sums up my inner thoughts. But I offer up a handful of other random comments on this your latest entry, “The Crossing”:
1. That pic of you & Claire smiling (& still obviously enjoying each other’s company- unless that’s a poseur shot? 😉), labelled as your “hike into Cerro Torre”, is nothing short of absolutely awesome!!! If that was the only pic you’d have sent out across the galaxy during your current trip, it tells us all seeing it, everything we need to know about the true joy that you are both sharing, despite your laundry list of challenges along the way.
2. I chuckled openly @ your review of the “facilities” @ Camping La Torcida. Your description of the abode made me think you were perhaps referring to Slinky’s early days building his home in the Upper SQUAMISH. Good to know that he has a Doppelgänger, so to speak, in the Southern Hemisphere- some of us were worried that Slinky was actually one of a kind!
3. Your “upgrade” after you ejected (jettisoned?) your tent off the back of your bike (BTW, so un-Jim-like that it wasn’t adequately strapped to your bike), to the “cheap Chilean tent w/ a broken pole and ripped fly”, has one silver lining attribute- it’s not likely to be stolen! Not to mention the fact that you supplied two happy Finns w/ some additional beer $ to augment their own adventures.
4. Thanks for so clearly defining what an “endo” is. Who knew? ( After all those bike rides w/ the Hounds Of Dirt). Good to see you’ve also learned a few post-endo survival techniques after observing Slinky and CEO Rayo “perform” in our very own Dump Trails over the years.
5. Your mention of your “Man-boobs” was completely unnecessary! All Hounds have them- sadly, in one shape or another! The true worry is when we all start looking at each other’s jugs while swimming in Edith Lake, rather than at “those” we happen upon and are lucky enough to discreetly observe (if we’re wearing our appropriate prescription glasses) while we’re out riding the SQUAMISH trails on those long warm summer evenings etc. 👌
Cheers my friends, keep on riding (& writing).
MHS #10
LikeLike
Awesome Steve, great to hear from you and really, you should be writing the blog…..love your irreverent writing style! Keep us posted on Hound antics and whatever else crosses your ample imagination.
Rayooo #11
LikeLike
Love the blog and the pictures. Those mountains are absolutely stunning in photos, so I can’t imagine what they would be in person! Thanks for sharing your adventures. Stay warm.
LikeLike
Thanks Denise, we appreciate the comments.
LikeLike
Jesus Christ! Bike touring? That one section might have been a fun descent. I did notice that the presence of ManBoobs didn’t keep your shirt on when the video camera came out. Interesting about the climbers because tradition is such a strong word in the climbing world that it’s accepted that you should ask permission before adding a bolt because ‘tradition’ says you should climb something in the style of the 1st party. It would appear that tradition applies mostly to weaker climbers, not stronger climbers.
LikeLike
So it would seem…..you would have been blown away by the climbing in Chalten. Worth a visit?
LikeLike
IT LOOKS LIKE A FANTASTIC ADVENTURE!
UNCLE FRED
LikeLike
Great to hear from you Fred. Hope things are well.
All the best
LikeLike
Go guys!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Dear Jim & Claire, apologies for my absent comments on your last few posts- I have thoroughly enjoyed them, and have been meaning to comment, but you know that “living the daily grind” thing has been cutting into my writing time. Anyway, the timing of this morning’s delivery of your latest blog entry was excellent!
Where do I start- after I stop laughing, but still smiling reading about your latest escapades! Never a dull moment w/ the Harvey’s! Truthfully, I’m thoroughly jealous pretty much sums up my inner thoughts. But I offer up a handful of other random comments on this your latest entry, “The Crossing”:
1. That pic of you & Claire smiling (& still obviously enjoying each other’s company- unless that’s a poseur shot? 😉), labelled as your “hike into Cerro Torre”, is nothing short of absolutely awesome!!! If that was the only pic you’d have sent out across the galaxy during your current trip, it tells us all seeing it, everything we need to know about the true joy that you are both sharing, despite your laundry list of challenges along the way.
2. I chuckled openly @ your review of the “facilities” @ Camping La Torcida. Your description of the abode made me think you were perhaps referring to Slinky’s early days building his home in the Upper SQUAMISH. Good to know that he has a Doppelgänger, so to speak, in the Southern Hemisphere- some of us were worried that Slinky was actually one of a kind!
3. Your “upgrade” after you ejected (jettisoned?) your tent off the back of your bike (BTW, so un-Jim-like that it wasn’t adequately strapped to your bike), to the “cheap Chilean tent w/ a broken pole and ripped fly”, has one silver lining attribute- it’s not likely to be stolen! Not to mention the fact that you supplied two happy Finns w/ some additional beer $ to augment their own adventures.
4. Thanks for so clearly defining what an “endo” is. Who knew? ( After all those bike rides w/ the Hounds Of Dirt). Good to see you’ve also learned a few post-endo survival techniques after observing Slinky and CEO Rayo “perform” in our very own Dump Trails over the years.
5. Your mention of your “Man-boobs” was completely unnecessary! All Hounds have them- sadly, in one shape or another! The true worry is when we all start looking at each other’s jugs while swimming in Edith Lake, rather than at “those” we happen upon and are lucky enough to discreetly observe (if we’re wearing our appropriate prescription glasses) while we’re out riding the SQUAMISH trails on those long warm summer evenings etc. 👌
Cheers my friends, keep on riding (& writing).
MHS #10
LikeLike
Hey Jim and Claire!
It’s Anna and Anna, the two chicas from Australia. We finally got good enough wifi to find your blog and we LOVE it!!
Since we last met, we have been hitchhiking and have also been spending nights in dusty holes by the road.
Best of luck as you head north and hope you don’t get blown away by the wind!
Big hugs,
Anna and Anna
LikeLike
Hi guys
Great to hear from you……try to keep out of those dusty holes!
Que le vaya bien.
Jim & Claire
LikeLike
Rayooooo. Wow what a hike a bike in a 6 k. ditch with a heavy load. Not that many people in the world would do that. You guys make all the Hounds of Dirt say Who gives a hairy rats ass as long as i’m Not there.. Fantastic pictures, looks like the effort was worth it though. Happy Trails To You until we hear from you again, Thanks again for your Blog as we are all living your adventure in comfort & not pushing our bikes up a Ditch.
MHS
LikeLike
Always good to hear from you Slink!
LikeLike
Just showed blog #4 to Mom. Beyond her wildest imagination. Going to India seems tame beside these adventures. Hope the new tent holds up in those fierce winds. Jessie will be in Peru in April. Happy travels.
LikeLike
Too bad. We will be in Columbia by then.
Tent is holding up but we are thinking of having some stuff including a new tent sent to Santiago
LikeLike
Allo vous deux, quel aventure? Nature sauvage et tres beau. Merci de nous faire visiter ce lieu. Vois etes pas seule a faire du velo dans ses conditions. Dire que vous pedaler pendant que je travaille. Chanceux..profitez en. Ici il pleut aujourd’hu. Toujours contents de vous suivre et d’avoir de vos nouvelles .
😻😘😘🚵🏼♂️🚵♀️
LikeLike
Malgré les difficultés du voyage, je ne changerais pas de place Martine. 2 jours de repos et on est prêts à continuer.
LikeLike
Wow, must have been amazing to look at those majestic peaks! I am truly enjoying your adventures, too bad about the tent but sounds like it was a bit of a blessing in disguise by meeting all these friendly folks. It’s good to see you are both still enjoying your trip and living in the moment with every mile you ride, easy or hard I’m sure. Take care, looking forward to your next blog.
LikeLike
Always good to hear from you Carole. Yes, still enjoying things despite the hard work. Currently both our lips are fried (cold sores) and won’t heal……hopefully sooner rather than later!
LikeLike
Merry Christmas, Jim and Claire, from your next door neighbours! We are looking at our beautiful mountains across the valley right now. Beautiful but not as spectacular as the ones you’ve been hanging around. It’s so much fun to follow your adventures from the comfort of home. Hope you have a safe and happy Christmas time, wherever you are.
Best wishes from Doug, Arlene and Abby🎄🎄🎄
LikeLike
Thanks guys
Christmas will be some rest days in San Martin de los Andes, Argentina. Heard about the big winds in Squamish. Hope our big fit is still standing;)
Best of the season to you all
LikeLike