It was an inauspicious start to our trip. The flight from YVR to Newark, NJ was uneventful but things went array on the next leg to Buenos Aires. About 45 minutes into the flight, when we well over the ocean, there was a loud bang and the plane shuddered violently. Immediately after the plane continued along smoothly but it felt like we had hit something. What that could be at 30,000 feet was anyone’s guess. An hour or so later the pilot announced that after consulting with engineering they decided to return to Newark to figure out what had just happened, and thus began an exhausting two additional days of travel with endless line ups, poorly organized shuttles, fitful sleeps and much confusion. The final approach into Ushuaia was the roughest I’ve ever experienced and foreshadowed the famous winds of Tierra del Fuego we had heard so much about. The passengers all burst into applause once we were firmly on the ground.
Ushuaia is in a truly dramatic setting. A somewhat ramshackle town that was once an infamous penal colony it now is a tourist destination built around it’s slogan ‘el fin de mondo’ (the end of the world). It is a port city but its most significant feature are the rugged, snow clad peaks that tower over the town. For me the architecture was also intriguing. Every structure, home or commercial, was different. Every imaginable roof pitch, dormer, gable, exterior cladding, window style, trim detailing, colour, etc. was employed. It was a bit of a mishmash but I couldn’t help but appreciate the creativity.
To date we are super impressed with the Argentinians. Despite their reputation in Latin America as being arrogant we have found them universally friendly, engaging and generous. In a country that reveres Evita Peron it is no surprise that we find the women strong and out going.
After 3 days of trying to get our act together in Ushuaia we prepared to leave for the North and disaster struck. We have lost our computer! We have no idea of where or when. We don’t think it was stolen and was most likely lost while passing security for the umpteenth time, tired and harassed by overly zealous security personnel. Whatever the case we felt sick. We have put so much time into organizing our technology and this blog that the loss is a significant setback. We have to put it behind us and try to function with just our iPad. I leave these issues in Claire’s, less technology-challenged, hands.
These early days of riding have been memorable. The first day riding over Paso Garibaldi (450 M) was a gorgeous climb with stunning vistas. We ended up camping at a busy picnic spot just as the rain started. Huddled under our tarp, chilled after our ride and preparing our dinner we ended up being the only overnighters at Lago Escondido. It was a long cold night as I had left my bag liner in a pannier under the tarp and dammed if I was going to crawl out of the tent in the cold wind and rain to get it. The next day brought a great tailwind for the ride into Tolhuin. We headed directly to the famous bakery Panaderia La Union. Within minutes Emilio, the owner, offered us a place to stay, a small, windowless room attached to a flour filled warehouse, the walls, ceiling, door, etc., of which were covered with messages and drawings by ‘cyclistas’ from around the world. We were still reading when Emilio showed up with Jef another cyclista from Belgium who squeezed in for the night.
The next day was intense. Our destination was an estancia (ranch) only 60 K distant but a fierce wind out of the west kept blowing us off the road. Despite the wide, good, dirt shoulder I was blown into the ditch once and Claire kept skidding out as we both had to repeatedly dab just to stay upright. Thank God we’re mountain bikers. We had lunch at a particularly aesthetic road side culvert, our only reprieve from the wind. Later that day the wind increased and blasted us head on. Gusting to well over 100 k/hr we could barely make headway hunkered over and pushing our bikes. As we crested a hill we could see the distant estancia and wondered if we were going to make it. Needing a rest we propped the bikes against a guardrail and huddled behind our panniers. Before long Tomas, the owner of the estancia happened by, we piled all our gear into the back of his pickup and we gratefully drove the last km or so to the ranch. He let us stay in an old cabin (gaucho accommodation we assumed) that vibrated in the wind but once we fired up the antique airtight we felt snug as a bug. Minutes later Jef showed up carrying a big bowl of meat and noodles courtesy of Tomas. The following morning we were up at 5:30 and got riding in reasonably light wind and rain. Things quickly degenerated to horizontal sleet. It was tough going into Rio Grande but good rain gear kept us dry.
Of course, we can afford to stay in decent accommodation but in the spirt of typical long distance cycle touring we opted for a Warmshowers stay (i.e., Couchsurfing for cyclists). It is all about the experience and remaining open to whatever comes our way. Our night with Desiz, Antonia, Lea (France) and Sebastian making empanadas for dinner, drinking good Malbec and chatting endlessly was great, maybe not for everyone, but works for Claire and I.
Another early start this morning to beat the wind that quickly degenerated into a fierce headwind that, once again had us pushing our bikes. After 12 K of hard work we stuck out our thumbs and finally got a lift to the isolated border post of San Sebastián. We are now comfortably ensconced in an ad hoc ‘waiting room’ behind customs while we wait out the howling wind outside. Running water, a noisy heater and a clean floor to sleep on, what more could we ask for? Despite a grim forecast we leave tomorrow for the 160 K crossing to Porvenir, Chile, most of which is dirt road and all into a headwind. Wish us luck and light winds!
OVER THE HILL AND BEYOND 
That sounds like an auspicious start to your adventure, I am enjoying living it through your words.
Gregg
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Thanks Gregg, I need you up in front so I can draft
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OH HOW I ENVY YOU, THERE’S NOTHING MORE I ENJOY THAN BEING ESCONSED IN A PLANE AT 30,000 FEET AND HEARING A LONG THREATENING BANG AND THEN SPENDING DAYS AND HOURS GOING THROUGH SUNDRY CUSTOMS INTERROGATIONS AND ENDING UP NEXT SLEEPING WITH SOME BAGS OF FLOUR. YOU SHOULD ORGANIZE TOURS .
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Classic Larry. Wish you were here
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Go Jim and Claire!
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Thanks a lot. I’ve been trying to get Tonya interested in bike touring and now you’ve blown years of subtle manipulation right out the window. Suffer on, it’s not even a flesh wound!
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Sorry about that old boy. Next time I will try to be more upbeat!
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Wow. What a start. Most sorry to hear about the computer loss!!?? Remember your Kobo story in Europe. You predicted the high winds but they do sound super challenging. Love the little house you stayed in. Amazing adventure. I’ll read all your posts to Mom! love Elaine
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I guess if you go to where there is wifi at Parkwood Mom can also watch the videos
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Wow! What a ”nice” start, hein?! Not funny to hear that bang especially when you are in a plane! By chance, you are fine and safe. But what a stressful situation?! You are very courageous to go through all that wind and water. However, you are seeing marvelous views and meet a lot of interesting persons. Keep going safely and follow your impressions. I am enjoying reading you and seeing your pictures. Thanks for that.
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Merci Nathalie et un gros bonjour aux 2 grands garçons. Bisous.
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Thanks for the news Jim and Claire! It’s an exhilarating read! Bad luck about the computer loss and the first 2 days of exhausting delay and confusion. You two are amazing! Good luck with the next leg. Ros
Sent from my iPhone
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Thanks Ros, adventures is what we seek and it is what we get. Of course it is sad to lose a computer but it is just a machine after all…
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Wow what a way to start your epic journey. Hopefully the next 23 weeks will be less windy & trouble free.. Great Blog.MHS
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Yes Slink we are hoping for easier pedalling ahead!
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PS.I continue to think about the lost computer. It is such a crying shame. Can you buy a bluetooth external keyboard for your Ipad. I just bought a Logitech K380.(360?) Super light and super cheap. $29. Might help. Happy travels.
Elaine
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I am such a slow typist that it makes little difference to me but Claire might do as you suggest
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Allo vous deux, bon depart. Pas facile l’ordi , le vent c’est fou 😜. Une chance qu’il y a des gens gentils. Ca donne du courage . Quel beaux paysages. Lachez pas le vent va tourner …contente d’avoir de vos nouvelles. Vous etes bon .xxx
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Merci pour l’encouragement Martine.
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Hi Claire and Jim, thanks so much for posting about your trip! I love the pictures. The landacapew are beautiful. Good luck with the wind. Damien and I pushed our bikes through north west China, Xinjiang for a few days! It was hard work! I look forward to your next post! Gill
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What a great Jimbo, albeit I’m reading it 5 days since you posted it. God knows what has happened since? Sounds like you might need a tacking sail where you are biking? Improvise and use Claire’s panties if need be. LOL. The lost computer is sad news. Next time shoot the offender and take it back! Good on ya for getting back on the “bird” after being attacked by a Russian drone! Impressive, that you both got back on the horse, so to speak, right away- after exploring the lights of Broadway etc. Sounds like you are meeting great people already- hardly unexpected! And good to see you’re including pics of people not just architecturally striking buildings. LOL (NB. My dad had a seafaring pal who took a cruise to Australia around the Horn etc and he came home w/ literally 100’s of pics of waves! Yes, and he showed them all to us too!) Good to hear you remain in great spirits & your adventures have begun now in earnest.
Cheers, the other Luddite.
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Should have known it was a drone! Thanks Steve, you keep us both smiling . Btw, we also have some wave pictures……betcha can’t wait to see them? Looking forward to your next reply.
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Allo vous deux. Contente de vous lire et de constater que vous vous en sortez bien malgré le retard de vol, perte d’ordi et forts vents. Vous êtes en train de réaliser un nouveau projet rêvé et planifié de longue date. J’attends vos autres publications avec impatience. Bonne chance et faites attention à vous. Bisous de la part d’ALain et moi. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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Jim/Clare, just catching up on the tour. WOW…..great start!! It’s all about the adventure, otherwise there would be no good stories to tell. We are going to take an oath at the next Hound ride to not complain about any riding conditions we might experience until you are back. Keep those pedals turning, and I wish for less hike a bike in your future. Rayooo….! Brian
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Thanks Brian
Good to hear from you. Keep those Hounds from melting in the rain;)
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Bonjour vous 2, nous avons été très heureux de vous rencontrer. Vous avez un très jolie blog et il et c’est super de pouvoir poursuivre votre aventure. Nous vous souhaitons un bon voyage!!
Gros Bisou Lucile et Remo
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Il était aussi bon de vous rencontrer. Nous espérons que votre retour se passera bien.
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Hi Claire, Jim, What a fantastic adventure! The shuddering of the plane had me shuddering just imagining it. And you got back on another plane! Some people might have reconsidered. I LOVE the cabin. Running water? Probably a silly question, but does the wind blow in a particular direction, and if so, why didn’t you start at the other end? I’ve just looked at today’s weather and it’s only 11 degrees and raining (and windy). Tell me this – when you’re pedalling or pushing into freezing rain and the ferocious wind doesn’t let you catch your breath – it’s still worth it, right? I thought so. I’m enjoying every post and wondering where you are. Wishing you many happy, warm, blessed days ahead!
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Luckily, we had only one day of rain. We had to also cheat a few times and catch a ride. I call it ‘getting smarter’.
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